| There have been a number of posts regarding the proper way to setup wastegates on aftermarket turbos. The reason behind doing this is so that the wastegates open at the same time, and at the appropriate pressure. This method is much easier than doing it by the wiggle method, and much more precise Tools needed:
Dial gauge (also known as a runout gauge)
Compressed gas or air, well regulated
Pressure gauge, in 1 psi increments
Assorted vacuum tubing and T to connect it all together The basic principle is that by adjusting the length of the actuator rod, you change the preload on the spring inside the wastegate actuator, thus adjusting the pressure required to open the wastegate. This requires trial and error: set the rod to what you think it should be, see where it opens, and adjust the rod accordingly. Setting up the apparatus, as shown below: Connect the vacuum gauge with the T between your regulated gas supply and your wastegate actuator. Guess a length to start with. I was going for 15 psi, so i applied 15 psi and set the rod close to that length to start with: 
Once you have a starting rod length, release pressure on the wastegate actuator. Set up the dial gauge, but not like in the first picture. That setup has the dial gauge measuring the actual wastegate flapper. That will not work, since there is slop between the arm and the flapper. You want the end of the dial gauge on the edge of the wastegate arm, as shown here: 
Slowly! turn up the pressure on the regulator. At some point you will see the dial gauge move. I thought that it would be a very gradual opening, but with the dial gauge, it is very apparent when it starts moving. Nothing, nothing, nothing, and then it takes off moving. When the wastegate starts moving you will see the dial gauge moving without being able to see the pressure changing, unless you have a very accurate pressure gauge. Make note of where the actuator opens. If it opens lower than you want it to, shorten the rod. If it opens higher, lengthen the rod. With this method, you should be able to get it dead on where you want it. I got both of mine to open exactly (read: +/- .1 psi... so close to 15 that i couldn't tell that it was off at all) at 15psi. You should be able to as well. The pictures below give you an idea of how rapidly the wastegate arm opens over a small pressure range. 
After that, put a small dab of anti-seize on the mating surfaces, install the retaining clip, and you're set to go!
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Joe
Engine Rebuild in Progress: Sport 530bb's + Inconel :-)
AIM: hoyatiger81
"No, let's listen to you with your $600 blow off valvers [sic] that do nothing for your performance, but make a nice loud sneezing sound. That's smart! PS - Stage III does require an ECU upgrade MORAN...You probably never even got you hands dirty working on a car. Take care toolbox!" --djtz1
he sure got my number ;-)
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Turbo wastegate setup/balance - 
