| After seeing the few sparse posts here for replacing the rear tie rods, I dove in. It took a couple of evenings to figure out the right way to do it, so I thought I would save someone else the pain of figuring it out on their own and post the easiest procedure here. It shouldn't take much more than an hour or so, and even the most mechanically un-inclined should be able to handle it. I apologize if the detail is too much or too little, but I don't know my target audience. This procedure describes how to replace both rear tie rods. This was done on a 1990 Twin Turbo. No guarantees that nothing changed in later models. Required tools:
- 17 mm wrench (high quality - do NOT skimp on this one)
- 19 mm wrench
- 7/16" wrench
- (2) 30 mm wrenches or crescent wrenches that can handle up to 30 mm
- Crescent wrench that can handle up to 38 mm
- 3/8" ratchet
- 19 mm 3/8" socket
- Small pair of dikes Recommended:
- Car ramps or some other way to raise the rear of the car Parts:
- Pair of new rear tie rods
- 19 gauge galvanized wire (available at Lowes)
- Liquid Wrench or equivalent (e.g. WD-40) Procedure:
1) Raise the rear of the car. 2) Count the number of exposed threads on the end of each tie rod. Write these numbers down. 3) Put Liquid Wrench on the lock nut of each tie rod. The lock nut is on the end of the tie rod near the wheel, where the tie rod goes into the tie rod end. 4) Cut and remove the wire holding the rubber boot covering the HICAS (inside) end of each tie rod. 5) Slide each boot towards the outside of the car, but stop before reaching the threads on the tie rod. 6) Loosen each lock nut as far as it will go toward the inside of the car. 7) Put one 30 mm wrench on the HICAS end (square part) of one tie rod and put the other 30 mm wrench on the HICAS end (square part) of the other tie rod. 8) Turn the 30 mm wrenches to loosen the tie rods. Note that you'll have to brace the second 30 mm wrench or find an assistant (hah!). 9) One of two of the tie rods will break free. You can tell which one by examining the beveled cylinder that the tie rod screws into. This will be tie rod #1. The one that did not break free will be tie rod #2. 10) Unscrew tie rod #1 from the HICAS. 11) Unscrew tie rod #1 from the tie rod end. 12) Examine the HICAS where you removed tie rod #1. You'll see a small beveled cylinder, surrouned by a large beveled cylinder, and next to the large beveled cylinder a large nut. The large nut is a lock nut. Loosen the large nut with the largest crescent wrench and remove both it and the large beveled cylinder. No power steering fluid will come out. 13) Put the 17 mm wrench on the beveled cylinder that tie rod #1 was screwed into. Do not let this slip, even though the fit is not tight! 14) Unscrew tie rod #2 from the HICAS. 15) Unscrew tie rod #2 from the tie rod end. 16) Transfer the boots and the lock nuts to the new tie rods. 17) Loosen the bolts supporting the HICAS so they are finger tight. 18) Install tie rod #2 as follows:
a) Install the tie rod into the tie rod end as far as it will go.
b) Install the tie rod into the HICAS end. There are two problems you may encounter here. Either the tie rod will not slip past the HICAS hardware into the beveled cylinder, or the tie rod will not line up properly with the beveled cylinder. Both problems are solved by removing the bolts that support the HICAS and man-handling the HICAS into the correct position. Always support the HICAS, either with the supporting bolts or by hand (it's not heavy). Do not allow the power steering lines to support the HICAS. 19) Tighten down the HICAS end of tie rod #2. You'll have to brace the other end with the 17 mm wrench. It doesn't need to be too tight at this point - just make it so all the threads of tie rod #2 are in the beveled cylinder. 20) Re-install the large beveled cylinder and lock nut on the tie rod #1 side of the HICAS removed in step 12. Use the tie rod #2's HICAS side as a template on spacing. 21) Repeat step 18 for tie rod #1. 22) Tighten the bolts supporting the HICAS. Before doing this, you may want to replace the lock washers (12 mm, or 1/2" will work). Mine were pretty wore out after 13 1/2 years. 23) Tighten down the tie rod #1 with the 30 mm wrench. You'll have to brace tie rod #2 with the other 30 mm wrench. This will also, in effect, tighten down tie rod #2. 24) Put the lock nut on each tie rod to the location you recorded back in step 2. 25) Turn each tie rod (one at a time) with the 7/16" wrench until the lock nut is flush with the tie rod end. 26) Tighten down each tie rod lock nut. 27) Slide the boots back into their original positions. 28) Wrap the HICAS end of the boot with the galvanized wire. Use the cut wire as a guide (or ask someone who has dealt with safety wire). 29) Take to a tire shop and get a four-wheel alignment.
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22:39:52 07/10/03
