Ingredients:
Two Garrett Ball Bearing GT25 turbos
Wastegate actuator kit for Z32 from HKS (part #
1430-RN002)
90° 3/8" angled steel bar from home depot
Replacement turbo gaskets see http://www.ttzd.com/tech/turbotech.html
for part #s
Replacement turbo water lines and copper crush washers
Exhaust manifold gaskets
5 Bolt flange Down pipes (Greg Dupree/Primespeed/others),
these are the same DPs that you use for the JWT sport 650s and the HKS
2530s
1.5 ft 5/8" heater hose
Small C or E clips to attach actuator rod to wastegate
arm.
Liquid gasket (permatex orange)
Oil line option A:
Oil line option B:
3 of (yes 3) HKS GT oil feed kit (part # 1408-OILFEED)
1 Earls banjo fitting 7/16" -4 AN
2 Earls -4 AN straight hose ends
2 Earls -4 AN 45° hose ends
-4 AN braided hose
Intake piping option A:
No additional parts needed
Intake piping option B:
2 1/4" Mandrel bent tubing from Summit, get part
#s HOK-12260 and HOK-12590
2" Mandrel bent J from Summit
2 1/4" exhaust flanges to fit the turbine inlet
flange, I found them at Autozone for a couple of bucks each
short length of 1/2" metal pipe
Intake piping option C:
as for option B but using silicone hose connectors
instead of welding.
Skill Level and Tools Required:
Advanced
Basic tools
Round file
Welder (preferably MIG with gas, not flux core)
Fabrication skills a bonus for intake options B &
C
- Bench grinder or dremel
- Hand vacuum pump with capability of creating
pressure and vacuum and a boost gauge
Procedure: Firstly remove the engine and get it on a stand. Follow the
procedure outlined in http://www.ttzd.com//tech/engine/engine.html
for detailed instructions on this process. While stock turbos can be
replaced on the car larger turbos will require engine removal. Remove
the old turbos, water lines, oil lines etc and remove the passenger side
motor mount (four bolts 1). Note when you are finished the
motor mount will not look like this at all!
Remove the wastegate actuators (2 bolts ringed in blue in 2)
from the new turbos, try not to lose the E clip that holds the actuator
arm to the wastegate lever. Loosen all the bolts holding the
compressor and turbine housings (ringed in red in 2) to the center
cartridge and remove the mounting brackets (yellow in 2). Do
not loosen too much, just so they compressor and turbine housings can move
with a bit of resistance.
Make a few templates of the compressor inlet flange, it
will come in very handy later. The way I did this was to take one of
the kid's washable markers, colour the flange and then imprint it on a
piece of white paper. I then traced it and made a couple of
cardboard cutouts of the flange. These will come in handy later when
we do the intake piping and it's much easier to do without the actuators
in place.
Passenger side turbo
Select one of the new turbos, and using stock as a
reference, rotate the housings so they are in a similar orientation to
stock. Take one of the stock oil drain lines (hard metal
pipes) and bolt to the oil drain on the turbo. NOTE: you will need
to use a round file to elongate the holes as the GT turbo cartridge drain
is smaller. You could opt to purchase the HKS oil drain parts but
they do not work well (HKS part # 15441-164287), it's easier to elongate
the holes in the stock drain. Don't worry about making up a gasket
as yet, this is still the trial fitting stage.
Bolt the turbo onto the manifold and onto the engine, with
the passenger side it is easier to bolt the turbo onto the manifold before
bolting the manifold on. Don't forget that you should have removed
the motor mount.
Gently rotate the center cartridge: you basically want to
align the oil drain with the appropriate orifice on the oil pan. At
this point the oil feed
Chris
AIM Endamoniada
1995 300ZX TT Stage +
1974 260Z Stock (so far) daily driver
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GT 25 Installation "Instructions" - 
