TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Re: General aftermarket ECU wiring questions
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Subject Re: General aftermarket ECU wiring questions
     
Posted by LitlElvis on November 18, 2024 at 8:53 PM
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In Reply To General aftermarket ECU wiring questions posted by FuerGrissa on November 17, 2024 at 10:57 AM
     
Message I have an ancient AEM S1 that I setup to control the fuel pump similar to a stock ECU. The voltage reduction is handled by the FPCU and the ECU provides the signal to the FPCU via pull to ground switches. I'm not sure of the exact current draw when closed, but AEM rates the circuits I used to trigger these at 1.5A max (both are injector driver circuits).

I also deleted the air regulator, the only caveat is during cold start the idle air control valve doesn't have enough air flow capacity at max duty to hold the idle RPM high enough to meet target idle RPM vs engine temp table.

Unless your ECU's software has a function to boost the IACV duty cycle instantly when the AC is turned on or when the PS pump puts a load on the engine, deleting the FICD valve will make it hard to maintain idle target speed under these conditions.

Regarding the ignition requirements and pins - depending upon what type of trigger system you decide to use will determine which pins go where. As far as I know with pins 41/42 and 51/52, 41 and 51 are physically connected to each other within the engine wire harness, same with 42 and 52.

For the stock CAS, 41/51 are the 120° signal, 42/52 are the 1° signal. The signal processing of the stock ECU/CAS is murky, but I believe the 120° signal is what keeps ignition timing in sync with the crankshaft position, and the 1° signal is used for calculating crank position updates between each 120° pulse.

You have to be careful if you intend to use the AEM 24+1 disc in a CAS, because of the location of its windows, it flips the output signals at the CAS. The AEM ECUs handle this change internally with software, but all other ECUs will need to have the signal wires switched at the ECU to route them properly.

If you want to maintain sequential ignition and injection will require two signals, cam and crank.

A crank trigger comes in two flavors, "with" cam signal or "without" it. "With" a cam signal will have two sensors, cam and crank. "Without" will have only one sensor and a missing tooth(or teeth) on the trigger wheel to allow the ECU to identify each engine revolution - this will do batch fire injection and wasted spark ignition.

A cam trigger (such as Specialty Z's) uses one sensor, but it is dual function and reads the magnet N or S orientation to generate two separate signals, again, cam and crank.

I recommend using Hall sensors over VR, very simple wiring, 12V, ground, and signal.

     
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