flushed and still had heat issues. When engine at operating temp shut off engine and check for cool areas on the inside face of the rad with hand or use an infra red temp gun. If there are cooler areas the rad could still be restricted or plugged in those areas thus reduced cooling capacity. Do this before replacing the rad to be sure and save $$. Worn fan clutch is still a good bet look into that more. With a infra red temp gun you can get accurate temps right at the thermostat and other places rather than what ever means you are presently using to determine coolant temp. The coolant temp sensors (the 2 in front - left for fuel control, right for temp gage) do not control coolant temp left sends coolant temp signal to computer and right to temp gage. If they tested ok then at least they are good. Note the left sensor if bad will not throw a code but fuel economy will suffer same for thermostat if open too soon and engine runs cooler will keep engine in warm up mode and computer will send more fuel. When installing a thermostat I always check it in warmed up pot of water on stove with thermometer to determine if it starts to open at correct temp and is full open at correct temp. Wasted time to do the R&R and it is defective. They do not check every thermostat at the manufacturer so differences occur.
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