| and still be bad due to corroded internal contacts with high resistance and current flow is reduced. Relay continuity bench tests are not conclusive, need current/resistance check to check a relay. Do a bypass wire system check start that will verify if the starter safety and other stuff in the system is OK or at fault. Get about 7 or so feet of 12 ga insulated wire. Unplug the electric connector at the starter. Connect the jump wire to the + side of the starter solenoid connector. Turn the key to the on position and touch the jump wire to the + battery post for a second or so, the car should start if the starter and solenoid are ok. Then the problem is the wire system from battery to starter. If car starts 1st place to suspect is the starter relay behind the plastic panel in the driver wheel well, replace it, I used Autozone relay no issues. OEM will cost more it if that is an issue. At least Autozone will accept returns if faulty. If jump test fails to start car there is a problem with the starter/ solenoid. A bench test of the starter will not always tell if a starter has fault (been there done that). Also note for future other no start problems. There is a safety switch in the clutch pedal system that needs to be engaged to start. Clutch pedal down will engage it. There is a green plastic disk on the clutch lever that will sometimes shatter do to age and prevent the engagement and no start condition. If plastic disk needs to be replaced it is a PITA to press it in with not much room under the dash. FWIW: Look at clutch safety start system operation in case plastic disk breaks unexpectedly and you have no replacement with you and prevent a tow. You can override the system to start with your clutch foot carefully placed to engage the switch (been there done that).
ZUL8TR |
