| First, I searched on here. Please don't tell me about the Auto FAQ link on adjusting the 90-95 TPS and that they are "similar with different voltages." I've done my due diligence in searching and cannot find anything relating specifically to the 96 TPs which has a second purpose. Need help adjusting 1996 TPS. I've searched all over and found ([ http://easyautodiagnostics.com/nissan/3.0L/idle-switch-test-and-adjustment-1 ])
But adjusting it to that spec has alternate effects. Removed and replaced because I noticed what I thought were dead spots (under acceleration, sometimes if I depressed accelerator more, the RPM would fall noticeably. Assumed it was causing poor AFR with incorrect data. Replaced with OEM Hitachi variant and have it set so the voltage is at 0.035V and 4/5 pins have continuity at around 80% throttle so 5/6 can have continuity at closed to around 10%. Found this was my best window. Set it a few times and had issues with the hard idle not engaging, so my RPM was up around 1800. Finally got it set in a sweet spot adjusting the switch positions then checking voltage was correct, tweaking a bit and then rechecking continuity readings.... Started it up and idle was super low. Went to adjust IACV and nothing happened when I removed the connector... But it had just been adjustable weeks before. Still, adjusted to the ~650 range and reconnected - no bump to 750. Left it alone. Went to drive and noticed the same "dead spots" where if I depress accelerator, the RPM drops, but letting off will cause it to jump back up. And these definitely aren't shifts or switching to OD occurring. Pulled codes using my OBDII Dongle and had a P0120 for the TPS having a circuit malfunction, which was never present before. Any ideas on what I can do? Car is drivable, but I'd prefer to drive it only when it's adjusted properly. Also, when in drive, car idles around 1krpm which it didn't used to do. Assuming this is due to the improperly adjusted TPS.
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