| 1. Its a good idea to put oil on them to make them easier to install, as well as to have lubrication between the seal and cap (to avoid premature wear before oil gets to it). That being said, Ive never heard of putting silicone on them to seal better, I always use motor oil. 2. When I installed mine with 2.5" DP's I had trouble with them hitting the frame rails. I loosened them to allow them to angle inwards a bit, but didn't completely remove them as it would have been a pain to put them all the way back in. Tightening them up in the car is easy enough. 3. How far off are they? The VG30DE(TT) is an interference engine, so the valves can hit the pistons. Look down the spark plug holes and try to get them all at least an inch below the head surface, then you should be able to rotate the cams to align the marks. You'll have to put it at TDC to do the final belt installation. 4. Leave the tensioner loose until you get the timing belt on. If you have a new tensioner there should be a bolt holding the arm in. Put the belt on and press the tensioner by hand firmly against the belt. Tighten the bolts holding the tensioner, then remove the bolt holding the arm. Rotate the engine CCW about 1/4 turn, then CW to TDC. There should be a 4-5mm gap between the arm and the body (the piston pushing tension on the pulley) Welcome to "While I'm in there...". Might be worthwhile to replace the rear main seal while you have the engine out (if the trans is separated)
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1992 300ZX NA 5 Sp (Dead)
1990 300ZX NA Auto 2+2 (Dead)
1990 300ZX TT 5 Sp (Building)
2004 G35 Sport 6MT (DD) |
15:50:45 06/26/14
