| Thank you to those of you who helped with the previous post of this. Here is the update ... For those of you that didn't read my first post. Basically, the car has been sitting for a year, while the engine got rebuilt. Now the engine is back in, and the clutch wont disengage. If the car is off, you can get it in and out of gears. A couple gears are tough to get into, reverse especially. However, if the car is on, you cant get it in or out of gear. Clutch to the floor, nothing. Mechanic says there is no mechanical issue. The pin slides back and forth. No sounds coming from the tranny. Doesn't suspect the bearing or pivot ball. Says he can see them because I dont have a dust cover ? So, after driving it around the parking lot, I found that it disengaged just a tiny bit, but still stays in gear. If I have the clutch pressed to the floor, the car still rolls forward. I can also hold the brake down, with the clutch fully pressed, and she'll stop, and not stall ... ??? Release the brake, and she pushes forward. So...it has to disengage just enough to not stall when I hold the brake. And, one time it worked just fine after the car had been on for half hour or so. The car went to a body shop, guy was a f*king crook and screwed it up, and when we got it back the engine bay was all disconnected. So my mechanic who put it together things there is a leak somewhere. Maybe something is loose or something? So, he wants to run a brake line from the Master to the clutch, eliminating the second bleed spot by the passenger side. Says he does it on 240's all the time. So that's the update for now. Wanted to see if anyone has any experience with clutch not disengaging completely but just enough to be able to hold the brake down while in gear and not stalling ? Is the single line a good/bad idea ? Any info would be appreciated.
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