Subject	Very simple, your not adjusting it correctly
Posted by	Greg D. (Specialty-Z) on May 15, 2013 at 10:05 PM
	This message has been viewed 205 times.
In Reply To	Then can you explain why every time I've adjusted per your posted by TriniTT on May 15, 2013 at 03:30 PM
Message	If you want maximun release, only one adjustment is correct,the pedal would never need to be touched again if it is done correctly, it is impossible to have the issue you describe when the adjustment is correct. If the adjustment is wrong, your description is exactly what will happen. When the pedal is factory set, the two switches at the top of the pedal assembly are keeping the pedal from coming back toward the driver and limiting the travel. The master/booster pin is adjusted so the switches just barely close and no additional pressure is added that would start pushing on the master pin, this adjustment from the factory allows the pedal to close the switches and has a hint of free play in the Clevis pin if you slightly push on the pedal. If you back the switches out flat with the nuts before moving the clutch pin adjustment, you would find the pedal no longer is closing the switches and you will find a gap. This is because the pin is too short to let the pedal come up to meet the switches. If you then lengthen the clutch pin, you will find the pedal will start coming up higher toward the switches. The pin is not pushing on the master and closing the hole to do this. If you continue to lengthen the rod untill the the electric pins on the switches just barely close, you have only extended the pedal travel to acheive more stroke of the master. The clutch pin will not have any pressure on the master if you adjust the pin correctly. If you continue to lengthen the rod even one turn after the switch pins close, you have gone to far and will be pressing on the master and will close the hole on the master. All the pedal adjustment is doing is extending the pedal travel. If you back the switches out for the pedal to be able to come up higher for more travel, and only extend the rod to keep the same free play as stock, your only extending the pin the length of the extra travel you moved the switches. If this is done correctly the master will not be depressed from the adjustment. I find it amazing how many people have the pin extended 1/4 inch or more past closing the switches and pushing into the master.
Follow Ups	I've been having issues with my Exedy twin carbon multi - SpeedyZX 12:57:14 05/09/13 I think you have air in your lines (n/m) - aliaZ 14:04:51 05/09/13 But it feels like the clutch plate is slipping on the - SpeedyZX 14:16:52 05/09/13 yes, air in the lines could cause that - aliaZ 15:23:10 05/09/13 The clutch pedal does not feel hard when it is slipping. - SpeedyZX 18:20:22 05/09/13 not sure what to suggest then - aliaZ 20:30:33 05/09/13 I have your answer. - TriniTT 22:13:15 05/10/13 Thanks J, I'll have my mechanic look into that scenario. - SpeedyZX 23:28:56 05/10/13 although it has been 8 years since I deleted my upper bleed - aliaZ 08:01:07 05/12/13 ^Yep, this too and here is a link to help fix this issue: - TriniTT 12:42:10 05/12/13 no, I was talking about the pushrod that comes out of the - aliaZ 11:50:04 05/13/13 But if you adjust the slave pin, you don't have to adjust - TriniTT 00:42:52 05/14/13 correct - aliaZ 06:25:57 05/15/13 The question to pose now: is the best method for adjustment - TriniTT 13:46:59 05/15/13 Longer slave pin is not correct...... - Greg D. (Specialty-Z) 14:45:31 05/15/13 Then can you explain why every time I've adjusted per your - TriniTT 15:30:22 05/15/13 Very simple, your not adjusting it correctly - Greg D. (Specialty-Z) 22:05:42 05/15/13 I'm such an ass. - TriniTT 00:29:51 05/20/13 *once the master rod was all the way out, not slave. (n/m) - TriniTT 16:18:06 05/21/13
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