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The clutch system is fully hydraulic, the pedal travel determines how much release is available.
The slave can only move the amount the master pushes fluid to it.
The slave self adjusts just like a brake caliper, the master has a hole that allows the fluid to return the slave or brake caliper, this allows the slave or caliper to back off the correct amount that always keeps the pedal firm.
This allows the slave or brake caliper to adjust as the clutch or brake pad wears. The hole in the master also allows the fluid to go to the resivoir as the fluid expands with heat.
If you lengthen the slave rod, it will bottom before the clutch is fully worn out and cause the clutch to slip because it will not allow the clutch to fully engage. The slave has to free float.
As the clutch wears, the fork moves toward the slave to compensate for the disc wear, if the pin is longer than stock, it will bottom and cause pressure against the T.O. Bearing and not fully engage the clutch.
This is also why the pedal has to have free play! If you remove the freeplay from the pedal, your causing the hole in the master to close,this prevents the slave from self adjusting. It also causes the clutch to be released as the fluid heats up and expands, the reason is, if the hole that allows fluid to get back into the master is closed, the fluid has no where to go and it will cause the slave to release the clutch.
If the hole on the master is closed, as the fluid heats up and expands, it has the same affect as pushing on the clutch pedal, when this happens, it will cause the clutch engagement point to change.
What a correct pedal adjustment offers, is it allows more pedal travel.
The freeplay is correct stock, to get more travel the switches at the top of the pedal are backed out, the master/booster rod is extended to have the same freeplay as stock, but with more pedal travel.
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