| I've done on a few NA builds using a dingle ball hone in a pinch. I've only done it when I absolutely don't have time to load a block into the CK10 but I've yet to have an issue with the engines sealing. 280-400grit is fine. You don't need special honing oil for this setup either. WD40 or PB Blaster will work fine. Since all you need to do is rough the cylinders up some so the rings can seat again just spray a liberal amount of WD40 on the cylinder walls and use a power drill with the dingle ball hone and go up and down till the cylinder bores look finished. Moderate speed is good and a good even up and down stroke all at the same rate of speed is what I suggest. For OE stuff where many say you don't need added clearance (but I personally suggest it) you just need something to get you going again, a dingle ball hone does work well and I've had VERY good results in using them. (aAnd for the record no I don't use dingle ball hones on a regular basis, just stating for simplicity for most and in cases where you can get by using one it is feesable and not a bad process if done correctly) Biggest thing you need to do though after you puff hone the block is to pull all the oil plugs out of the block and clean everything thoroughly. THAT IS KEY!!! But if you can wait it out I'd would suggest giving it to your machine shop as its always good to go ahead and mill your deck surfaces to "true" them to ensure you get the proper sealing of the head gasket. It also doesn't hurt to add an extra .001" of piston to wall clearance as well. The added clearance can not be done with a mere dingle ball hone tool. The amount of heat these engines produce on a boosted application is significant so adding that clearance in there will help things out quite a bit.
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