| So while my motor was supported and I was taking out the drivers turbo, I decided to check several things with the cross-member out. Both motor mounts obviously shot so I went Z1 polyeurethanes. I also noticed a portion of the transmission to alternator harness that I had already cleaned the alternator side of to be burnt by the turbo/exhaust. I decided with the recent storm and some down time (as well as little to no money left in my budget) to rebuild my entire harness. If you own a z32 and have ever touched the wire harness anywhere in the car you know what an old brittle (probably PS fluid/oil covered) harness feels like, just like I did! This thing was just down right grimey and probably near failure. Now Z1 sells this harness for $170 and Nissan sells it for over $200. For a bunch of wires and connectors I already have? Materials:
2-3 Rolls of GOOD electrical tape (look for made in USA)-$3-5
Box of assorted heat shrinks-$10
Box of assorted crimp connectors-$10
Box of heat shrink butt connectors(large)-$6
Wire shielding (1/2",3/8", and 3/4")-$18
Electrical parts cleaner-$6
Gunk degreaser-$4
(Mind that most of these items I had in my tool box since I do many wire repairs so my cost was only about $30 total) Tools:
Cutter/Crimper tool
Mini torch (or similar for heat shrink)
Wire stripper/Stripper Gun
Razor Holder + Razors <p>1 - First, assess your attack plan. Purchase/assemble your tools and materials necessary to complete the job. Then lay these items out neatly in your work area so you don't lose track of your work.<p><img border=0 src=) (My work area right in the kitchen at the sink)
<p>[IMG]<B>[ <A target=_blank HREF=) http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1261_zps409136ee.jpg ][/IMG]
(An idea of just how nasty/greasy everything on this harness was)
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(Several pictures just before all the shielding and tape was removed) 2 - Start cutting all that old conduit, shielding, and tape off! If you have fluid leaks this gets messy real quick. Use of the razor and holder become useful here. As you get to main junctions where large amounts of wires meet, use a zip tie to remember and hold that place. Now you can cut the zip ties out of the way as you work forward. [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1273_zps412d9b7f.jpg ][/IMG]
(Look how much old crap came off this harness. Filled a whole grocery bag) [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1266_zpsb42b05f7.jpg ][/IMG]
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(This is the harness bare with nothing but wires and connectors. Notice the zip ties holding major junctions in place.) 3 - Clean the HECK out of harness. Use the gunk or degreaser of choice for the main wires and wipe clean with lots of water. Use electrical parts cleaner or MAF spray to clean out the actual connectors themselves. You can watch the black just run off into the sink. Wipe down completely clean and spray off any remaining reside with the electrical cleaner. [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1269_zpsbd3de812.jpg ][/IMG]
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(Clean harness to be repaired) [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1271_zps85b7a4af.jpg ][/IMG]
(Burnt section) 4 - Repair time. Any old butt joints looking nasty? Cracked insulation on wires with metal wire showing? Cut them out and butt connector them in with good weatherseal connectors that have wax impregnated into the heat shrink to create a weather tight seal when melted (expensive but worth it). STAGGER YOUR WIRES. If you have to replace a 10" section, don't just cut all 6 wires straight across. As you continue to make butt connections/solder with heat shrink over it, the width of the wire has now tripled. Think of 6 wires triple the size in 1 spot. Talk about funny looking harness. I use about 1" buffer. [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1277_zps33b14fcb.jpg ][/IMG]
(Weatherseal butt connector) [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1275_zpsf4f60231.jpg ][/IMG]
(Repair wires cut equal lengths) [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1276_zps85772b4c.jpg ][/IMG]
(Repair wires with weatherseal connectors crimped and shrunk) 5 - With all wires in good condition and everything repaired, start to wind everything in electrical tape. If you have heat shrink and it will fit over the ends, use it to shield as well underneath the electrical tape. Once everything is wound in at least 1 layer of electrical tape, you are ready for your shielding. BTW DO NOT FORGET THE 90 DEGREE PLASTIC SHIELD. TAPE IT IN PLACE! [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1278_zps0a0140b5.jpg ][/IMG]
(Fully loomed in electrical tape) 6 - Shielding and taping. This takes TIME and PATIENCE. Select the most appropriate size possible (user discretion) and cover EVERYTHING in the shielding. Use electrical tape as a band to just keep the longer pieces in place every foot or two. Once all the shielding is attached begin to carefully wrap the entire harness in a flowing winding motion with electrical tape. [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1280_zps9073b8c1.jpg ][/IMG]
(Shielded and taped) 7 - Looks like a real harness again finally! Get several stab straps (zip ties with plastic clips on one side to hold harness in place) and attach as necessary. Heat shrink any loose ends and apply die electric grease to all connections. Your harness is as good as new. [IMG][ http://i1119.photobucket.com/albums/k638/superstock89/IMAG1281_zps22a31627.jpg ][/IMG]
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(My refurbished harness!) The total repair time was about 3-4 hours of tedious but leisurely work while sitting on the couch (after the harness is clean). Have fun, don't rush it, and enjoy saving some cash for some performance!
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How to save over $100 on the Trans/Alt Harness - 
