| Please "VOTE TO FAQ" This article will cover how to install an aftermarket steering wheel on a 1990-1996 300ZX.
My car is a 1994 with the 4 spoke wheel with dual SRS airbags. All 4 spoke wheels will be very similar and the three spoke wheels should be similar as well. My instructions include how to save your horn with little modification while using what is already on the wheel. If you’re using this on the street, please check your local laws before performing this modification. I will also show you how to remove the “Air Bag” light from the gauge cluster. **The fitment of this setup places the wheel perfectly for me (I’m 6’4” tall). If I were going to use this with a quick release, I would combine the quick release with a Splash or Works Bell short hub to keep roughly the same spacing. However, it wouldn’t be too close to just add the quick release with the standard hub adapter. I think it could be comfortable either way. Parts are from [ www.frsport.com: ]
- Nardi Deep Dish Leather 350mm (item #: 07QDD 6069-35-2093)
- Splash Works Bell 623 Steering Wheel Hub Adapter (item #: 079WY 623)
- This hub fits both Nardi and Sparco bolt patterns Tools Needed:
- #2 size Phillips screwdriver
- Small Flat head screwdriver (you need this to remove panels and help press the horn button in its spot)
- 3/8" drive wrench, 19mm socket (I use deep well sockets, but it shouldn’t matter), and various extensions
- Needle nose pliers
- Black electrical tape Special Tool:
- T50 Internal Tamper-Proof Torx Bit Socket (3/8" Drive) (I purchased mine from NAPA auto parts)
* Do not use a regular torx bit by trying to punch out the center post.
- Steering wheel puller (I purchased mine from NAPA auto parts)
Remove the center leg panel.
Remove the upper and lower column cover halves along with the plastic key ring.
Remove the three plastic covers on the sides and bottom center of the steering wheel.
Use you T50 torx bit to remove both security bits from each side of the wheel. Also, disconnect the two wire harnesses from the rear center pocket to allow removal of the airbag.
Remove the nut from the steering wheel shaft with a 19mm socket.
Use the steering wheel puller for removal. Be careful since it is tough and might require some strong pulling. Make sure you feed the harness through the wheel while you remove it…you will re-use it later for the horn.
** OPTIONAL (if you don’t want the “Air Bag” light on all the time).
PART 1: Now that the wheel is off, it’s a good time to remove the gauge cluster. First, take the two screws out of the leather dash cover to remove. Second, un-screw both pairs of screws from each of the control pods and unclip them from their harnesses. Third, take some extensions and a 10mm socket to remove the bolts holding the pods and gauge cluster frame to the dashboard. NOTE: The Hazard button on the right control pod need to be unscrewed separately and has its own harness to unplug. PART 2: First, remove the four screws holding the gauge cluster to the dash. Second, remove the 5 harnesses from the back of the cluster. Lastly, locate the light bulb which is behind you “SRS” Air Bag symbol and remove. Mine had a Hot and Ground wire coming out from it. All you have to do is un-screw is from the cluster and you’re done. You can cover the bulb hole with electrical tape if you like. Before continuing, re-install the gauge cluster in reverse order. NOTE: the extra space without the wheel just makes it easier.
**RESUME
Now that everything with the wheel is apart, grab the air bag and unclip the wiring harness. The yellow plastic connectors will be re-used. Once removed, based on this picture, you will remove the black plastic connector at the complete opposite end from the yellow connectors.
I broke my connector apart since it will not be used again. What you will need to retain in good shape are the metal slip connectors attached to the wires.
Once you have the plastic off, bend both metal quick connectors at a 90degree bend as shown in the picture below. Bend the open side down towards the wire. This wiring system works as long as the circuit is complete. This means that it does not matter which connector is used on the horn button. BUT, in order for a better connection, I used the connector on the right (shown in the 2nd pic below) to attach to the horn button since it has a safety tab to help keep it from backing off.
Take your hub adapter and find the arrow under the bolt hole (shown by my thumb). This is the top of the adapter and the backside will slide over the posts on the clock spring (the piece with the yellow sticker). Before you slide the hub adapter on, connect the harness to the clock spring harness and feed it through the adapter (shown in following picture).
Everything from the clock spring to the first black connector is tucked inside the hub adapter. The rest will need to be inside the the metal cone which is what the horn button is connected to (shown below).
Slide the hub adapter on to the splined hub and make sure to keep the arrow at the top (don’t get worried if it’s not absolutely perfect…the splines may be off slightly which is fine). Then, bolt it down with the lock washer on first followed by the nut. I don’t know what the torque specs are, but I snugged it till I couldn’t turn it and then gave it another medium crank to make sure it was nice and tight. If you’re really worried, you can use some low temperature Loctite as backup.
This is where you should be now. All that’s left is attaching the steering wheel and setting up the horn button.
Attach the new wheel with the supplied hardware. My setup included the 6 allen key bolts and even the allen key to tighten them down. BE CAREFUL when attaching the wheel and horn button since the finish can be easily scratched.
Take the quick connecter I pointed out earlier, the one with the safety tab, and span that on to the horn button as shown. Make sure to wrap the connector with electrical tape once the connection is secure. Leave the other connector wrapped loosely inside the metal cone. There should be enough pressure on it which will connect the electrical circuit to allow the horn to work. BEFORE you press the horn button in to place, re-connect your car battery to test the horn. You should be able to hold the horn button and press it to make some noise. If successful, you can press the horn button in place. When pressing it in, get two of the three pressure points set inside and then press the third point in using a small screwdriver( I found this to be the easiest way).
This should be similar to your end result!
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How To: 300ZX Aftermarket Steering Wheel Install - 
