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Oh man do you have a task ahead of you. I did the EXACT same thing. Bought a NA 91 300zx from a guy for $400! Car had to be jump started, and BARELY ran. Was sitting in his ex-wife's driveway for 4 years and hadn't been started in 3. He took $400 only because I agreed to have it gone in an hour so his ex-wife would leave him alone about it lol. Had 2 flat tires and the interior needed work. After a week of HARD work, I had it running like a dream. Drove it to work for 3 months before I was rear ended at a red light and the car got totaled (idiots wrecking my Z's *sigh*). Anyway enough about that.. So heres the meaty part: First check ALL CONNECTORS. I mean EVERYTHING. Pull CAS, PTU, TPS, MAF, all coil pack plugs, all injector plugs, O2 sensors, Detonation sensor, IAC (2 plugs behind driver side of plenum), Air Regulator (1 plug to the left of the IAC plugs), and whatever else I missed. Clean them all. Use vinegar and sandpaper. I found that using emery boards (thin cardboard disposable nail files) cut to thin strips were perfect for making all the contacts shine again. You want the copper to be shiny. Then get some dielectric grease, or vaseline works great and fill the plugs with it before you plug them back in. This will prevent water and dirt from getting into your freshly cleaned connectors for a long time. Once all the connectors are cleaned up then run ECU codes. Look for anything major like TPS, CAS, ignition circuit, injector circuit, detonation sensor, ect. Step two, do a COMPRESSION TEST. Go rent a compression tester from your local auto store, pull a spark plug, unplug the fuel relay and releive your fuel pressure and do a compression test. You can find the optimal and minimum allowed PSI by searching these boards. Your cylinder's need to be within like 10-20 PSI of each other also, a huge variance indicates a problem. Step three is replace ALL "TUNE-UP" ITEMS. This includes changing oil, new fuel and filter, air filter, and SPARK PLUGS at the least. Old gas will run like crap and a new set of spark plugs is a small investment. You will also find MANY people don't know the correct spark plug for the Z32 and the wrong plugs are in the engine. Along with new fuel I would replace the fuel filter and check for any cracked fuel and VACUUM lines or missing hoses (open connections). Spend a lot of time checking your vacuum lines for cracks or misrouted hoses. PCV and IAC hoses are big sources for leaks. Now that you know all the above is 100% right with the car pay special attention to the electrical connections, start pulling coils and codes. Get the car started, and pull the plug off of one of your coil packs. If the engine drops in RPM or dies then you know that coil pack and injector are working. Make a note of which ones dont work and swap them with ones that did work. See if the problem follows the suspect coil pack or if it stays with that cylinder. After your are 100% all 6 coil packs are working, test the injectors. Stick a screwdriver up to your ear and put it on the top of the injector and listen for a clicking noise. Also you can ohm them out using a multimeter and that can be a huge help in finding the bad one(s). If you get all that tested, and all the injectors are replaced or without a doubt functioning then report back here and we will see what other help we can give you with your Z. You could have major air leaks, abused turbos, clogged intake pipes, and a mess of other things wrong if this cars a twin turbo. You need to give us more information about your car and what if anything you have done to troubleshoot it besides put gas in. Condition of the engine, pictures, videos, turbos working or not, all stock or some aftermarket, stock ECU?? When it does run again, expect to do a timing belt and 60k service on it also so you don't blow up all your hard work thus far. -Alex
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