| problem of shifting into gear but it does impact the firmness feel of the depressing the pedal which is why I mentioned it. On to your questions. 1) If adjusting the pedal solves your issue, then it isn't necessarily a band aid. If the problem returns after you have adjusted the clutch, then you know something else is in play. 2) When my master cylinder needed to be rebuilt, the signs were very gradual. Fluid loss was not really noticeable. The MC mechanism only needs a very small amount of fluid to do it's job, so it can leak for a while before you might notice it in the reservoir. Plus it can still perform below par without leaking fluid if the spring inside has worn out, much like worn out coil springs gradually fail over time. But I will say, when I did get down and examine the firewall area near the pedal I could see a small trail where fluid had leaked. When driving the symptoms were intermittent trouble engaging the clutch, usually resulting in a double depression of the clutch to engage it, but it was never bad enough where I couldn't get it into gear at all, so I'm not so sure the MC is your problem. I suppose it couldn't hurt to rebuild it and rule it out. Requires more bleeding though. :-) I will say rebuilding the MC was one of the easiest and cheapest jobs I've done on the Z. The kit was only around $20 when I did it several years ago. Probably more now, but still relatively cheap I'm sure. Toughest part for me was that the nut connecting the hardline into it was rounded off causing me to have to use vice grips to remove it instead of a flare nut wrench. What was going on with your car before you had it shipped? Anything? Any work done on the car before you shipped it? Very strange if it was working fine before but has almost overnight gotten to the point where you can't shift into gear. That would seem to indicate something has changed mechanically, ie. someone physically changing something, or that something has suddenly failed, i.e. slave clyinder, etc.
|
