| Just got my brand new engine fired up tonight. Along with the new engine, a lot of mods were performed including Z1 Throttle bodies, 2.5" IC piping, Ash inlet piping, etc. After initial start up, the idle would not go lower than 1300-1400 RPM once the engine was warmed up. I unplugged the yellow connector on the IACV and tried screwing in the idle screw. The lowest I could get idle to go with this method was about 1100 RPM. I turned off the car, and I suspected that maybe the Z1 throttle bodies were cracked open a hair and decided to adjust them to close. I adjusted the 2 set screws on either side of the throttle bodies down (albeit, without removing the piping to physically look at them). I then tried to start the car. It would fire up, but die out rather quickly. So I adjust the idle air screw out a bit and started the car. No problem - she would fire up and stick around 600-650 RPM. I then proceed to plug in the yellow connector on the IACV and the ECU wouldn't bring the idle back up. I'm stumped as to why. I manually adjusted the RPM to sit between 750-800 RPM, but I know this isn't correct. The other symptom I am having is after I rev up the engine by depressing the accelerator, the idle will dip down and then come back up instead of steadying right out to where it should be. Please note the following has already been checked (readings via Nistune): 1. TPS sensor - reading 0.48V at full close.
2. TPS switch - when the accelerator is not depressed, the TPS idle switch is closed.
3. O2s appear to be reading fine
4. Boost leak test - no leaks. Please note that the following parts are brand new: 1. TPS
2. IACV My questions are as follows: 1. What do I need to do next to solve this problem?
2. How do I set my throttle bodies correctly for syncronization and how should they be set for full close (i.e. accelertor not depressed). Thanks in advance.
 |
