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using a short stubby coupler over that flange will push out where the OEM pipe would sit, and it would likely rub or bind with the heat shield. I think I could make that work on the passenger side, but on the driver side, there is even less room for me to push the stock inlet pipe even 1/2" towards the front of the engine.And yes, I completely acknowledge that the GT2560R was a far better bolt-on choice in retrospect. I came across the GT2554Rs for $495/ea, so I went with it. Regarding the oem inlet pipes...if you look at how they are formed, right where they meet the turbo inlet flange, they go from being round (at the flange) to being oblong, so a coupler would likely have a hard time making a good seal even if I cut off the flange on the linet pipe.
Like you said, I could solve this issue by taking the turbos to a machine shop and having the inlet pipe on the turbo ground down a full inch, but now they are all bolted up and ready to go! Hah, I'm not trying to be *too* lazy, but it was REALLY difficult for me to be able to tighten down the water line on the passenger side due to where the brackets for the wastegates sit.
By the way, how does JWT/Z1 make sure is no gap even after they bolt on those flanges? The flange you posted is a 2.5" diameter, and the inlet pipe on the GT2554R is 2.36". So, there is a 0.14" gap. Do they weld theirs?
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