| So I put the IACV/IAA assembly back on the engine, there was no change. Idle was still a little off.. I pulled the IACV connector with the engine running, and the engine just about died.. it would barely idle. I backed out the idle screw and adjusted it to ~700RPM. I didn't have a digital tach, so I couldn't be spot on. I went a bit lower than the ECU controlled idle and called it good. I checked the vacuum again with the engine warm and after fixing the boost leaks I found. I am at 19, steady. This seems good, but I can swear I can hear a leak somewhere still. I might be paranoid, it's still coming from the IAA area, right by cyl. 6. I took some spare fuel hose and tried to pin-point the sound from under the plenum. This yielded nothing. Vacuum seems good, any comment on this would be great. I pulled all the plugs, and compression tested everything. All cylinders 155-168 all around. I don't have the actual numbers in front of me(I wrote them down) but I remember the high/low. I suspected I needed new plugs, so when I pulled them out I found my problem. PFR6B-11! Either myself or my friend grabbed the wrong coil packs when installing them. I meant to reuse the plugs from my old engine since they didn't have too many miles on them. (I forgot to order new ones with the 60k, as mentioned before) Somehow the JDM packs got installed, and somehow somewhere in Japan someone used NA plugs in the my TT engine. Fail.
Also fail on my part mixing them up. Rookie mistake. So, the idle is all straightened out now. Runs smooth and doesn't stumble anymore that I notice. I pulled codes today also, for the first time since the swap. I got code 35 (EGR temp sensor) because the new engine never came with an EGR from the factory. I grabbed the sensor from my old engine, and plugged it in. Code is gone. Now 55. Will there be any adverse affects from using the temp sensor rather than the resistor trick? I am not sure what the ECU does with this data. Any insight here would be good. Should I just pop a resistor in there or is this method okay? I also set the timing. I tapped into the PTU(Black wire) and found the timing at 25 BTDC(After 60k). I adjusted this back to 15 degrees. Lastly, I took it for a test drive boost seems okay. Using the stock gauge it's probably in the 8-10's. But obviously this is a poor reference. On the way back I was pushing it, and it would only rev to 4k. Then started acting up a bit more, it had no power and would almost feel like it was dying if pushed past 2k. After crawling along with my hazards on at 30 mph, cars passing me. Eventually it went away, and I could rev through the range again. It got scary there for a bit though. Pushing the car was not something I was looking forward to. lol. I will pull the MAF and clean it off. I have been pulling it here and there (Stock air box) while doing boost tests. Likely something got on the element. Anyway, that's the update. Please feel free to comment. I'm still wondering about the EGR sensor, and the sound from the IAA area.
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