| Message |
My whole car is still a major work in progress, so please excuse the mess, but in this first pic, you can see that I cut a hole in the firewall, before repainting around the hole and installing the grommet. I loomed all the wires (2 awg starter power, 8 awg accessory power, boost controller, wideband o2 sensor), so the hole is pretty tight at the moment.
 I was wrong in my first post when I said that the power wire went down to the rear center of the engine. The mount at the back of the engine is actually about halfway between the engine center and the passenger edge. You can't really see this mount in this next picture, but at least you can see the routing of the wire a little better.
 Here's a pretty bad pic of the battery, but you can kind of see the circuit breaker (mounted on top of the battery with adhesive mounted zip ties) and the starter solenoid (mounted in front of the battery).
 Here's a closeup of the starter solenoid. Power comes straight from the battery to the left terminal. The center terminal is tied to the starter ignition wire using 10 or 12 awg wire. When this center wire is hot, power is allowed to flow from the left terminal to the right terminal, which leads to the starter motor. So, as long as the key is not being cranked, the short wire between the battery and solenoid is the only hot wire.
 Here's a link to the starter solenoid that I used. - http://www.napaautoparts.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=ECHST82_0169971569 BTW, your battery box looks really nice! Although my setup doesn't look too bad when all the interior panels are installed (I had to cut a chunk out to make the battery fit), I still have a lot of cosmetic work that I need to finish. I'm building a huge fiberglass 13W7 subwoofer box that fills most of the trunk, so hopefully I'll be able to conceal the battery pretty well when I'm done.
|
 |
