| In the process of your car being with this shop, were the fuel injectors removed from the fuel rails and reinstalled? Reason I ask: it is possible that an injector oring is leaking due to an incorrect installation procedure - likely on the driver's side given the info in 7b. Injector orings and fuel rail bowls MUST be liberally lubricated for an injector installation to prevent the orings from sticking to the injector bowls and twisting up as the injector is inserted. Many, many people/shops fail to lubricate these parts.. FWIW, it is probably the ~#3-#4 reason I have to provide support for my ECU upgrades; "Ash, my car is running really really rich!"..... "Did you lubricate the orings and bowls?"..... "Eh, NO, didn't know I had to do that..." :) One way I have verified a leaking oring is to remove the spark plugs and disconnect the injector connectors. Then have someone try to start the engine. Obviously it isn't going to run, but this process will allow you to easily identify if an injector oring is leaking. :) When the engine is turning over, if an oring is leaking, you will see fuel mist being blown out of the affected cylinder(s) through the spark plug hole during the compression stroke. There should be NO fuel mist in this condition. This is a pretty easy test to perform, and at the same time, the resistance of the injectors can also be verified. If I'm not mistaken, the "dremel method" can be used on all but the #5 injector. Since the problem appears to be on the driver's side, that is a bit of luck. However, I've always looked at the "dremel method" as a shade-tree mechanic's practice. You can't shade-tree the Z32 - they simply demand more attention than that. If you have an injector that has failed, pull the plenum, remove ALL of the injectors, and replace ALL of them with new injectors.... preferably with an injector model that has proven a reliable service life (e.g. PE, Border, Nissan phase-2 injectors, Deatschwerks). I presume you have OE injectors in your car for lack of funds. While I would have recommended you to do differently, if the problem is a leaking injector resulting from an improper installation on their part, I would absolutely not allow them to start grinding on your plenum to fix the problem. Aluminum shavings all over your engine? 7b states that the driver's side appears richer and 2b states both O2 sensors are indicating rich. This is the only part that is somewhat inconsistent with a leaking injector oring on the driver's side. If a leaking oring were the culprit I would expect the passenger side to be operating normally. BUT - When you did the conzult: Was the engine up to at least 165F temperature? Was this constant rich condition indicated during idle? Cruising? Did you try free-revving the engine, holding at ~2000RPM (while stationary) to observe the O2 information? When you start the car cold, do the O2 sensors report a low voltage for the first ~30 seconds ? (0.00V to ~0.35V) During the conzult check, starting the engine from cold, does the coolant temp sensor information begin at atmospheric temperature and increase to normal operating temp (~170-180F) within ~5 minutes? When cruising for several minutes at ~55MPH-70MPH does the coolant temp reading fall within 170-200F? A semi-faulty temp sensor can report inaccurate data but not throw a code. If the ECU thinks the engine temperature is below ~165F, it will operate within the cold-start enrichment mode, which will cause a continual rich condition.
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