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Subject Utilizing the Headlight Aiming Tools
     
Posted by Gordo 93TT Daytona on October 19, 2009 at 11:01 PM
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Message After lowering the suspension with Eibach springs, and changing the rake of the stance with larger wheel and tire sizes; it became immediately apparent during my first nightime drive that re-adjusting the headlights was in order.

Normally I would have used the tried and true headlights beamed on the garage wall method. However just for fun, I wanted to determine whether the OEM headlight aiming tools could be of any value in the aiming process.

As it turned out, these tools by themselves were quite accurate in aiming the headlights. This was in spite of not using the attendant headlight aiming machines they were designed for.

The aiming tool is attached to three (3) nubs on the headlight glass. Suction cups to secure them in place.

After both tools were set and locked down, a straightedge was attached to the front edge of both rings. A bungee holds the straightedge in place.

The first objective is to insure both headlights are pointing directly ahead. This was accomplished by adjusting the side-to-side position of each ring so that it was flush on both sides to the straightedge. That is to say, the front ridges on both rings were in plane with each other.

With the tools positioned on their respective headlights, and the rings flush and perpendicular to the straightedge, then the headlights will be aimed dead straight ahead, relative to the front of the car.

The next adjustment was the up-and-down or vertical position. Accomplishing this task was a little less precise because the headlights, when properly aimed down the road, are tilted very slightly upwards. (The FSM recommends the top edge of the focused beam plus or minus four inches from the center of the bulb at twenty-five feet.)

A short bubble level was used and I fudged a little rise up in the angle adjustment.

When this procedure was completed, the car was positioned the recommended 25 feet from an aiming wall, and the headlights turned on.

I was quite surprised to observe that the focus was within three or four inches to the vertical and directly spot on it the side-to-side plane of the FSM specs. This was accomplished using only the aforementioned tools.

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