| I'm not sure what 'Data Scan' is.. but if it tells you that the 'Idle Switch' is made when you are Idling things are LIKELY adjusted properly.. Normal Idle Behavior is the O2 Sensors will be 'Cycling' just off of Idle.. When you hit the Idle Switch, the Ignition will Jump to 15 Deg.. 'Rock Steady'.. and the O2's will Swing up to Lean ( <~.3 Volt ).. then the Idle O2 Feeback routine will start coming to life, and it will SLOWLY start nudging the O2 Sensor Voltage >.6 Volt, and then 'Snap Back' to less than .3 Volt.. I had a bitch of a time getting my Piece Together '90 NA to Cycle in Closed Loop for Idle.. I ended up having to Fuk with Mixtures on the Prom to get mine to Operate Normally.. Also check the O2 Voltages Left to right.. and adjust the T-Bodies if needed to get them Close.. If you cant get that last few HC out of the Tail Pipe.. Toss in New Cats.. They will clean up all sorts of sins.. My 90 NA was getting dirty at the Idling Tailpipe testing.. Last test was ~80 HC.. just passing.. after a few years of driving I noticed the Idle was starting to get Krappy.. Next HC test was 160HC. I removed the Injectors and found one that was dripping, and the ~50% Duty Cycle Test was Off by a Bunch.. the 100% test was close..
I had two sets of Injectors, and I started testing between them.. I finally found 6 that were within 1% of each other at 50% and ~3% at 100%..
I tossed in new ( Ca legal ) cats and the car tested at ~10 HC..
I was stoked!. Cap
|
