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Okay, quick recap, spent last 2 years wrenching on the Z. Finally fired it up and car wouldn't pass smog. Took it zcar garage, they couldn't help, but did say he thought timing might off a tooth. Before I go further, here are pics of the car in question, my 61k miles 1995 Z32TT:
 
So in fact, one of the cam gears was off one tooth, not only that, my new timing gun has an advance on it, which I didn't realize so the whole time while I thought I setting it to 15 degrees TDC, in fact it was more like 30 degrees TDC, ouch.
I also bought an obd1 cable and datascan, why I didn't do this earlier, who knows. Best $85 I've ever spent. Now that everything is adjusted properly and back in spec, the car feels so much better. It pulls hard right up to redline, no detonation, or hesitation, so i'm going to try and get it smogged again and I'm guessing I'm going to have much better numbers this go around, with the timing belt fixed and the timing set properly. That all being said, there are two things that are still puzzling: 1) I have to really crank my CAS all the way to one side to get it set to 15 degrees TDC, you can see from the pic, is this normal? Or better said, is this not abnormal? I physically can't retard the timing much below 15 degrees. 
2) I still don't have steady timing unless I disconnect the TPS, then the timing marks are rock steady, but with the TPS plugged in, the ignition timing bounces around ( I tried a new TPS, same thing). This isn't normal right? The ECU timing and the physical timing are both aligned 15 degrees TDC, and when the ECU timing bounces around, I can see it on my timing light as well, at least they are in synchrony, but why would the timing be bouncing around like this? link to video of timing jumping around in datascan ==> VIDEO I read a CAS drive pin could cause it, mine looks okay, I also read 1 tooth off could, but I know that's not the case, unless it jumped somehow again. The CAS seems to be working properly (I pulled it and spun the wheel and could hear the injectors firing properly), any other random thoughts to check? I don't get why the TPS connected causes the ECU to start adjusting the timing at idle but when I disconnect it, the timing stays rock steady. Clearly the ECU is seeing the signal from the TPS and starting to make adjustments to the timing, I'm just not sure why, or if this is normal at idle. (for the record, I couldn't find anything in the FSM about setting timing, the only item in the index is about changing the timing belt, not setting timing) Pic of CAS pin:
 I am so close to figuring this out, once I have an answer for the timing jumping around, I will feel really confident the car has its gremlins worked out and I can start driving it regularly again and turn up the boost to really feel the builds full potential.
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The saga continues, but getting close *I think* - 
