| If the only thing you changed was the downpipes and o2 sensors, you NEED to check them on ECUTalk. When I had a faulty o2 sensor, I purchased 2 new ones. I was not only going to change 1 at 100,000 miles. I put them both in and the idle was bad. I checked on ECUTalk and found that the faulty one that was replaced, was now fine. But the good one on the passenger side that I also replaced, was not reading correctly. I thought it was a faulty, brand new, o2 sensor. I changed out that new one again (thanks to COZ at ConceptZ for sending me a replacement to check with), and it was not the new sensor's fault.
I swapped cabling from driver's side to passenger's and found that it was a problem on the passenger side only. But not the sensor itself, as I said I already changed it out again with another good/brand new one. What I found was that the problem was the grounding of the o2 sensor. I pulled the bung out of the stock downpipe, sandblasted it at work, then put it back in with copper coat (non-silicone) anti-seize. That worked! It was a faulty ground. *pulling the old sensor and replacing it with new, broke the 'seal' of the grounding. When the new sensor was plugged into the old bung/downpipe, I guess the seal never made contact through the rust on the bung. Rust does not conduct.
I know your downpipes are new. BUT, if you have any debris on them, maybe the contact will not 'ground' and you won't have the corrrect signal going to the ECU. Hence causing the poor idle. The o2 sensor grounds though the downpipe. It's a 3 wire sensor.
1 wire for signal (and the ground is the body of the sensor going into the downpipe), so that makes the completed circuit.
And 2 wires for + and - for the heated element circuit. Check ECUTalk to make sure BOTH o2's are reading correctly. *another check would be to unplug both o2's. If the idle is fine, then it's the o2's causing the problem and you'll need ECUTalk (or similar software) to toubleshoot and find exactly what side is causing your issue. Vinnie
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08:30:52 07/25/19
