| Wanted to share this with the group as I went through this just this past friday to install a set of Nismo 740cc injectors into the older fuel rail within my VG powered Mazda B series pickup. If you are a machinist or have access to a lathe, this is not a difficult set of parts to produce yourself and in just about an hour and a half of time and an old fuel rail, you can machine your own and save a few bucks. These adapter kits are usually around $100. I just used some 6061 bar stock laying around the shop to make these. You will need a piece of stock about 8" in length to do it comfortably and at least 0.800" diameter. 6061 is going to be the only alloy you'll want to use for these as it cuts very cleanly and will not require any post-machining sanding or surfacing to allow the orings to seal up properly. The final image shows the dimensional drawings that you can use to make replicas. The initial cuts for the tip oring adapter. The bore is cut for the P2 injector tip oring and the o.d. is cut out the same as the P1 injector lower oring seat. The base (far left) is cut out to sit into the tapered pocket of the injector bucket and hold the oring in place.
 The adapter has been cut from the barstock and mounted with the parting cut to be faced off right up to the 45-degree taper oring seat. There is an additional machining step to be done here to cut a taper in this end of the bore to clear the injector body. Refer to the drawing in the last image.
 A pic showing how the parts sit into the injector bucket. One of the buckets were sectioned to check for proper fitment. (Do not mind seeing the HNBR orings (green) and think you have to use them for the dimensioned drawings I have provided - these were just used as templates while waiting for OEM orings to arrive)
 An injector bucket was cut free from the rail and the tube was trimmed back to allow the 3rd chuck jaw to seat flush to the bucket's o.d. for centering. This is used in the next step to adapt the OE injector holding caps.
 The top of the OE caps was cut flush with the face where the two screws hold it to the rail. I touched them off on the belt sander to get a nice clean surface finish.
 The cap was bolted to the bucket to cut a recess for the P2 injectors' top lip AND to cut clearance further up for the rest of the injector connector head.
 
The seat is cut to the same depth as the lip (0.117").
 
And here are the dimensions of the parts. The top right machining step I did not take a picture of while I Was doing it but it requires a taper to be machined into the adapter at 16^ to an opening of 0.580" to clear the small metal lip of the injector body that sticks out just below the filter body. 
Do not forget to use LIBERAL amounts of lube on all of the orings and mating surfaces on both the injector and the bucked AND the nozzle adapter prior to installation. Also, you will need to shave the plenum just above the #1 injector where the support bar holds the throttlebar assembly. You have to cut that back about 1/2" to clear the longer injector connector. And of course, do not use crimp connectors when installing the new injector clips. ALWAYS solder your wires and use heat shrink tubing to insulate them.
Enthusiasts soon understand each other. --W. Irving.
Are you an enthusiast? If you are out to describe the truth, leave elegance to the
tailor.
Albert Einstein
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DIY P2 Injector adapter component fabrication >> - 
