| I finally started my Swap and thought I would post a detailed diagram of the tools necessary to properly pull an NA motor during TT swap.  ">
I was looking through my pictures yesterday and this made me laugh a little, but this is how you get it done in the hood :). By the way I used 4 actual jack stands the other jacks were for extra safety, im just a tad paranoid.
On a more serious note, I read the instructions in the tech section for removing the motor. It states that if you want to pull motor with tranny attached you needed the Nissan engine slingers and locations. I don't know how much they cost but I know I can't fit it in my swap budget. So I ghetto rigged some of my own. Possible tip - I put these together for about $10.00. I purchased the little tow loops(don't know actual name) at oreilly's. They have a ridiculously high weight capacity. The bolts and washers I purchased at the local hardware store because they don't have right bolts available at A-Zone or Orielly's. I removed the plenum and bolted them to the 2 bolt holes on the side of the heads, right underneath the 2 side bolts for the plenum. The plenum side bolt holes are the same distance apart as the heads but I was unsure if they were strong so I put them on heads. Worked great for me other then one of the passenger side bolts bent a little bit, but I knew it wasn't going any where because of the washers. even though I think these are plenty strong use this at own risk. 1. Tow Loops X2 - $4.99+tax (Oreilly's tow section)
2. Bolts X4- about $3.00 Size M8X20 pitch-1.25 (Hardware store). M8X16 might work a little better,M8X20 are a little long but this is all they had at the time.
3. Large Washers X8- about $1.00 -(hardware store)
4. Smaller M8 washers X4- about $1.00 -(hardware store)
Lastly for all you other TTswap novices like myself. The Tech instructions on this site state that you can't pull motor and tranny together without lowering the front crossmember to clear oil pan. This might be common knowledge but it took me a little while to figure out that you can do it without lowering Crossmember. The motor does slant back quite a bit but its not that bad (you have to lift car pretty high to do it this way I lifted it like 21" front and 18" rear). What you do is- 1. after you remove motor mount nuts and tranny bracket/ shifter stuff. You lift the motor all the way until it gently stops(carefull pull lift any harder and you risk bending the Rear hard coolant lines that attach to heater core). At this point Oil pan has about an inch and a half to clear itself.
2. Place jack under tranny and lift it till it gently stops.
3. Lift Motor until oil pan clears.
4. Slowly remove tranny jack. you are now clear for take off.
Again im a novice myself and I can care less about my NA motor so it worked fine for me.
Before I Figured this out I actually bent the hard coolant lines a tad because I yanked the crap out the motor until I lifted the rest of the car with it. I also scuffed the oil pan a little bit(no dents) from trying to pull the motor forward before I realized that it hadn't cleared crossmember This was all before I realized you had to lift tranny. No serious damage but thank God it wasn't my TT.(I pulled the motor by myself, another pair of hands woulda been helpful)
* This is something else to try at your own risk. I don't know if this is the right way to do it but it worked for me.
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Finally Started NA>TT Swap! - 
15:18:52 04/24/14
