| Pretty sure your issue was the clutch fork spring that caused the clutch to burn out, If retainer was not centered on the bearing/fork it could most definitely cause it to stay partially released all the time killing the clutch. You're blaming the clutch where there were broken parts in the release system? No clutch is going to put up with that amount of slippage for long, it will either burn up, explode or weld. The clutch had to be slipping horribly and smell horrible to burn up like that in 5,000 miles. Sorry if I am being a little harsh but I'm sick of people blaming the clutches when there are obvious mechanical issues and/or driving habits that could have caused their problems. I've had people burn up every clutch they have had, any and every "Brand Name" in 5,000- 10,000 miles, looking for a miracle they call me, I sell them a clutch, they burn it up also in a short amount of time and blame the clutch still? Heat kills clutches, you slip them to death and overheat them, they will die. The South Bend Clutch kits were updated well over a year ago to prevent any issues with them and have had great success since.
We only sell that particular clutch you had with the SS pressure plate, We found that the TZ clutch needs the extra clamp load when new as most people do not heed the warnings that it MUST be broken in for 700 miles minimum. The extra clamp load keeps it from slipping too much when it is new under heavy loads. Why other vendors still sell the kits that were updated over a year ago I do not know. The new clutch you have is the same clutch material, Though a cheaper version, Might want to make sure you break it in easy for at least 700 miles.
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