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First off, previous posts:
[ http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/forums/general/view/2498859/Lets-revisit-this-Wastegate-syncing-because-Im-having-an.html ]Here's the refresher. After a fresh install, I was boosting 18psi as my base. It was determined later that the liquid filled gauge my friend and I used was 6psi off so when we set for 12 and hoped for a 10 base, we actually got 18. Fast forward to today. For other reasons, I needed to remove my DP's today to install the new OEM O2's. What better time than to resync the wastegates. Unscrewing 8.5 FULL turns from where we had it before, we tested our incoming air via 2 gauges: 1 Podi, 1 Autometer. They were both w/in 1psi of each other but I chose to use the Autometer. After applying 12psi, we got the wastegates to crack anywhere from 1-3mm from the seat, but both were the same. After reassembly, we took it out for a spin and NOW, I have a base somewhere around 14psi. WTF? I'll say up front that I STILL(damn me) don't have a manual boost gauge hooked up and am relying on my AVC-R which we've tested to be accurate. Based on my previous research and what ASH's reply was in a previous post, it appears my car is suffering from major boost creep... and this is with the wastegate separator removed. EX: Getting on it in 2nd gear, my car will shoot up to ~.8x bar quite quickly, and from there continues to slowly rise past 1.1x bar before I let off/ gear ends. 3rd gear will shoot past .9 bar w/in a blink and again creeps past 1.1x before I decide to let off. NOW... As a test, I set my AVC-R from being in Monitor/Off to 1.0 bar & ~30% or so duty and my friend who was sitting in the passenger seat told me my car shot up to 1 bar and held it dead on. I have tried like .7 bar/20% duty and get the same result as boost creep. I will need to get my gauge hooked up at this point and also dial in my AVC-R until I can get the car dyno'd and tuned. With regards to my stalling: After adjusting my TPS to .46, changing out my HKS SSQV w/ BDE GHK's, I STILL experienced some stalling with the last 2 times I drove it being pretty bad. At that point, I had diagnosed the O2's as being shot because from a cold start up, it would run like shit for about 30sec, then smooth out and any time I even tried to step on the clutch w/ RPM's at 2-3K, it would drop, and not recover and stall. Also, datascan showed next to NO activity from the O2's... whether I blip the throttle, or start her up from cold. NOW, with the new O2's, datascan reports back w/ moving O2 values, increases/decreases when I blip the throttle, and the lean/rich cycles as it should where before it just sat in a rich state the ENTIRE time. Furthermore, coming back from one of my runs, I tested by stepping on the brakes aggressively and depressed my clutch ~3K RPM's and the RPM's just dropped to 1K and didn't fluctuate... the car never stalled. Sorry for the long post.
 1993 TT. R.I.P. 09.15.2010
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