Show Detailing and the Basics of Show Car Care
This article is designed to educate the novice on auto detailing and
provide concourse quality detailing tips for the experienced. Not all the
tricks below will apply to Z's
The Basics:
Auto detailing is the process of making an automobile look its best
without major dismantling or repainting. But, detailing is much more than
a quick wash and vacuuming. Detailing requires careful planning and methods.
Today's car detailing is an art.
The following is an overview of proven professional tips and some little
secrets learned over the years.
Washing:
· Always remove rings, watches and other jewelry. Be alert to
belt buckles and rivets on jeans as all will scratch the paint surfaces.
· Never use soaps containing sodium or those high in alkaline
content. Use only mild car wash soaps that are neutral based (PH7).
· Never use household detergents as they can strip wax and burn
paint. Wax type soaps or hot waxes are not a cure for a dull unpolished
surface. In fact, when combined with an oxidized surface loaded with contaminants,
they may even make the car look worse after it has dried. Never use powdered
car wash soaps. A single grain of powder, not completely dissolved can
scratch the paint surface.
· Make sure the car is cool and in the shade.
· Do not use a high pressure stream of water because it can force
dirt against the paint surface causing scratches and remove stickers and
peel paint.
· Never vigorously scrub your car's finish to remove stains.
If necessary, advance to a stronger cleaner for spot cleaning of stubborn
stains.
· Start with the wheels and tires. They take the most time and
effort. Use a tire brush to remove road grime.
· Keep the car cool and wet during washing. This simply allows
you to wash it more efficiently and eliminate the possibility of the car
wash soap drying on the paint and streaking. A cool surface allows you
more time to dry it properly.
· Water spots are salt and mineral deposits left when water evaporates.
These salts "bite" into paint. If they remain for any length of time, it
is difficult to remove. Quality car wash products will provide a strong
plating action to keep water spots from "biting" into the paint. If the
car already has numerous difficult water spots, they can often be readily
removed with a soft terry cloth towel, with the spot dampened with a little
white vinegar.
· Three table spoons baking soda to water will neutralize any
acids in the wash water. Make sure all the baking soda is completely dissolved.
· Remove the license plate frames and the plates themselves.
Also remove any easily removable emblems to wash behind them.
· Use a 5 gallon bucket for the wash process. This lets the dirt
being rinsed out of the sponge or mitt to settle to the bottom of the bucket,
instead of being re-applied to the surfaces.
· 100% cotton wash mitts and towels or high quality natural sea
sponges are best for use.
· Do not use synthetic wash mitts as their fibers are to stiff
and will cause unwanted hairline scratches on the finish.
· Always use a extra mitt for tires vs. a mitt for the under
body. Use fresh car wash mix and mitts for the body.
· Wash in a back in the forth method. Moving from front to back
on the car. Message the body in this manner will aid in the prevention
of swirl marks. A circular pattern may cause spider webbing.
· A three inch, soft, natural, bristled paint brush works well
in washing around headlights, mirrors, window trim and emblems that a wash
mitt can not reach.
· When using brushes, some can be cut to length. Always apply
duct tape around the metal part of the brush to prevent accidental scratches.
· An old soft toothbrush is a must on dirt from the lettering
located on the tail and side light lens. That is the only place a toothbrush
should be used as they will scratch other parts of the car.
· For drying - use thick terry cloth towels to reduce microscopic
scratching. What about a chamois you ask? They are not recommended. A chamois
is typically hard to keep clean. They can drag the dirt back across the
paint. Chamois will also streak and hold grit and dirt particles.
· Cloth toweling can be put in the washing machine and dryer
to be ready for next time. Normal laundering is adequate. Make sure the
soap is phosphate free.
· Machine drying for toweling is fine. However, Fabric softeners
are not recommended as they introduce unwanted chemicals into the cotton
fibers.
· Dry the car in the same fashion as you washed. Use the back
and forth method.
Wheels and Tires:
· Each time the brake is applied, your expensive wheels are bombarded
with heated fine metallic particles. Each being baked onto the surface.
As the dust remains, pitting sets in, thus destroying the appearance of
the wheels. Do not let brake dust and grime build upon the wheels for more
than 3 weeks. Regular maintenance with a non-abrasive cleaner will prevent
etching and damage. Never use abrasive material or chemicals that can destroy
the clear coat finish.
· Do not use cleaning solutions that have a high acid or alkaline
content. Safe and effective wheel cleaners should have a PH factor of 8.5
to 9.5.
· Always wash wheels when cooled to prevent possible damage to
brake rotors and the wheels themselves.
· When detailing custom wheels, get creative. Use everything
from Q-Tips to popsicle sticks and towels to get into those difficult to
reach areas. Some professionals have used a shoe polish applicator.
· Some detailers also use corn starch and a clean rag to take
off any excess grit left behind by the polish. You will be amazed what
will come off on the rag.
· With wheels with a protective clear coat - use a wheel brush,
an old soft toothbrush or a baby bottle brush. Never use a gritty polish
on a coated wheel. You will rub the clear coat off and that will then allow
contaminates to ruin the wheels.
· Whitewall cleaners do a good job, but there is chances of over
spray on the body. Instead, many detailers prefer the low cost and maneuverability
of SOS pads for whitewalls and raised white letters on the tires. Use a
small cropped brush, soap and pads make short work of cleaning.
· After the tires are completely dry, a good protectant can be
used. Professionals and show judges caution against the use of petroleum
based tire dressings, as they attract dirt. Also the high gloss synthetic
look is not natural to rubber or vinyl. One other item on dressings - there
are dressings containing a solvent that opens the pores in the rubber allowing
silicones better penetration. The solvent was blamed for drying out the
rubber, thus causing cracks and splits.
· Apply a good dressing to a rag first, then to the tire. This
eliminates the risk of applying the protectant unevenly as well as hitting
the wheels and body.
· Water and polyurethane based protectants dry to a satin finish,
rather than a high gloss and will tend to wear better and longer to have
a natural look.
More on Wheel and Tire Detailing:
Tire and Wheel styles have changed so much over the years. They were
a basic necessity years ago, but are now considered an integral part of
an automobiles overall appearance. Plan to spend time washing wheels and
all of their nooks and crannies to bring out the most brilliance. Likewise,
apply tire dressings sparingly and be sure to buff away all excess to leave
tires looking balanced and evenly finished.
· Painted clear-coated and aluminum wheels can be permanently
pitted from residue, or brake dust created by high performance brake pads.
This sticky residue will etch a heated wheel if it remains on the surface
for extended periods of time. Brake dust should be removed as soon as it
becomes a visible black film. Because using the wrong cleaner can cause
additional damage, do a little research first before you jump into cleaning.
Harsh chemicals that worked well on chrome rims can cause major problems
with the newer finishes.
· Safer wheel cleaning also requires special brushes. Rims require
a brush that is softer than you might think (if the bristles hurt your
skin, then they are to stiff for a painted wheel). Do not use a brush with
exposed metal. An accidental slip can permanently gouge paint or polished
metal rims. You can though, clean tires and wheels wells with a slightly
stiffer brush.
· Even with regular washing, highly polished wheels all require
a specialized product to restore lost luster. Choose a polish designed
for the type of finish you are working on. Never use an abrasive chrome
polish on aluminum, or a caustic aluminum polish on clear coated wheels.
A clear coat is simply a non-pigmented paint. It should be cleaned with
the same approach and with the same products designed for an automobiles
body.
· There's more to cleaning tires than you might think. Exterior
rubber fades, cracks and eventually loses its mechanical properties from
exposure to ultra violet (UV) light. This process is called photo-degradation.
Chemicals and road pollution present another danger to synthetic and natural
rubber products.
· The first step to recovering the original tire luster is proper
cleaning. Choose a tire cleaner, along with a white wall cleaner ( if applicable)
that will remove buildup of road pollution and old dressings without damaging
the tire surface in the process. BE AWARE that some tire cleaners will
destroy wheels and rims. Do your homework first. Avoid brushes with a very
stiff bristle. They can scratch rubber as well as the wheel.
· The second step to rejuvenating natural luster is the application
of a high quality rubber dressing. Choose one that's not too thick or not
apt to sling off on the car when driving down the road. The key is make
sure it is long lasting and will not rapidly attract road grime. Properly
maintained rubber should have a rich, dark sheen and be smooth to the touch.
To the folks that remove their rims from their cars for cleaning:
· Here is a tip for caring for the lug nuts. Chrome and painted
lug nuts may scratch during removal and installation. To prevent this,
place a piece of a heavy duty plastic freezer bag over the lug nut before
applying the wrench. Start with a fresh section of plastic for each lug.
The plastic will stretch but will not tear for metal to metal contact.
When using a rag for protection ---- a rag will tear and thus damage the
lug nut.
Polishing:
· Polish merely cleans the surface in preparation for wax. After
a polish, always follow with a "quality" wax. At shows, a polish, just
before judging can be applied.
· Glazes and polishes are in essence the same products. Professional's
do not recommend those products on a weekly basis. These products feature
a very high rate of distillates in their formulas to cut dirt and oxidation.
They offer no added protection, depth or shine to the paint surface.
· When polishing, let it do the work by applying it in a straight
line rather than a circular motion or you run the risk of putting swirl
marks in the paint.
· Use of Buffers - Unless you are a professional, buffers is
a sure way to destroy paint. With today's exotic clear coat metallic paint
jobs, a buffer can be absolutely deadly. Clear coat paint jobs are very
susceptible.
· There are two types of compounds:
Rubbing - very strong and gritty. The purpose is to remove dead paint
and wipes out stubborn stains and tough paint blemishes. Use this product
as a last resort.
Polishing - Mild abrasive. Removes more paint than a sealer and will
renew the paint while doing the least damage. Polish also works on scratch
removal.
· Polishing will not fill small cracks in newly exposed paint.
Glazes and sealers fill cracks and scratches, which help to make the surface
feel smooth.
· Plastic polish is best for removal of fine scratches and swirl
marks and is safe for clear coat finishes.
· Polish, glazes and sealers will not protect the paint against
sun and weather. A protecting wax must be applied which also will enhance
the shine and depth.
Waxing:
· Two coats of wax is better than a single heavy one.
· Lasting quality of wax varies with climate, sun exposure and
temperature. A carnauba base wax lasts longer. For application, one must
determine the most suitable car regiment for your needs. This is based
on auto age, color, and operating environment as well as frequency of use.
These are the deciding factors. It is important to remember that one cannot
see wax degradation. Paint that looks like it needs a wax is actually showing
paint damage.
· Avoid waxing in the sun. It would be like frying an egg on
a hot surface. Keep the surface of the car cool.
· Spray waxes do not last because the contents must be thinned
to allow the formula to flow through the nozzle. Do not spray directly
on the body. Instead spray on an applicator or you are going to have a
lot of over spray to clean up.
· Paste wax can harden if improperly stored for lengthy periods
and could cause scratches if applied in that condition.
· Liquid waxes - Never squirt directly onto the paint. Apply
to an applicator first for the best results.
· Good paint needs wax to help keep it oily, due to the fact
that paint needs to breathe and wax keeps the paint pores open. This is
also true for cars with a clear coat.
· Clear coats are commonly used today over metallic or water
based paints to produce gloss and extend durability. Regular waxing is
very important. If left unprotected and not waxed, the clear coat will
thin and the paint color will appear dull and continue the deterioration.
· Sealers can dry paint out because it actually seals too well
and the paint can not breathe.
· Some polymer silicone products are touted as containing Teflon.
The draw back here is when these types of sealers begin to break down,
the particles of silicone actually drift into the paint and can contaminate
it.
· Some older types of wax will tear up the finish and clear coats
on newer cars.
· While waxing, use the body lines and seams as guides to divide
the body into sections. Use the back and forth method.
· Wax build up in crevices can be removed with a fine camel hair
brush. Do not use a toothbrush, as it will scratch the surface. Also note
that wax left on the car is a major deduction in concourse level shows.
Remember to tape the metal part of the brush.
· When waxing - take your time!
· Do not forget to use a correct wax applicator pad.
· To buff the wax, use a cloth towel.
More on Wax Itself:
· Wax is an organic material that is solid at room temperature, melts
at a fairly low point and is not a polymer. Wax comes in many types, including
vegetable (carnauba), mineral petroleum (paraffin and microcrystalline), animal
(bees) and fossil (montan). And yes also synthetic.
· It has many properties, including hardness, water repellency, resistance
to breakdown and melting points (about 160 to 180 degree Fahrenheit).
· Wax is the last step in car care and serves as a paint protectant and
also makes it shine.
· It is a barrier against things in the environment including acid rain
and other contaminanats that affest the car's paint finish. When wax is
applied to the car's surface, the contaminants attack the wax and not the paint.
· Wax protectsby improving slip resistance, preventing dirt and dust from
abrading the surface, preventing contaminants from corroding the paints
surface. Wax also improves the appearance of the car by making it shine. It improves
the reflection of light off the car, making the finish look smoother and
brighter.
· Manufacturers continue to debate what is more important: looks or length
of protection. some manufacturers feel looks are more important than protection,
while others feel the importance lies in how long the finish will last.
· Waxes contain more thna just wax. Other substances are often added to
wax to help it work better, amking it easier to spread and last longer.
· Polmers and silicones may be added to give wax more durability. Waxes
typically last one to two months or less depending on the formula and how
much of the product is applied.
· A polished, clean surface will make applying the wax easier, enhance
the appearance and help the wax cover imperfections in the surface.
· The same wax formulation can be used for old and new cars, as long as
the car is prepared properly. Howerever, the age of the car can affect
the outcome of the wax job, or the length of time the shine lasts.
· It has been proven that natural products has the best overall performance
on new and older cars.
Glass, Trim and Moldings:
· Remove all unnecessary stickers as they distract from the overall
appearance of the car in a show. Judges dislike them. Razors on glass is
fine, but on paint use your fingernail & warm water. The warm water
will moisten the sticker and make it easier to remove.
· Glass cleaners - Windex is fine but some people mix ammonia
with water (a capful per ½ bucket of water).
· Regardless of the glass cleaner used, never let the glass cleaner
on the painted surfaces Protect the cars finish by laying towels on the
surfaces prior to cleaning the glass.
· Do not overlook the trim - use dressing. Apply this by hand.
· Anodized aluminum is fragile. Never use polish, as the slightest
grit will surely remove anodization. Apply a very light coat of a protective
liquid wax.
· Rubber moldings should be cleaned with soap and a toothbrush.
Paint over spray and other stains can be removed with paint thinner. In
some cases you may have to carefully use lacquer thinner to remove deep
paint stains. Use extreme caution with lacquer thinner as it can quickly
mar any paint or plastic surface. Then after the cleaning process dress
the molding with your favorite brand of dressing.
Engine Compartment:
· CLEAN is the word - either custom or original.
· If the engine is cosmoline covered, first use a citrus cleaner
to remove the majority of the chemical. WD-40 will also work. Use a soft
detailing brush and apply the cleaner, brush and wipe. Repeat as required.
Never do large sections of the motor at a time.
· Make sure all rubber is dressed.
· Judges have been known to check even wires (spark or otherwise)
for correct curvature coming out of the control boxes or distributors.
Make sure every wire is properly tie wrapped. Stay away from cheap hose
covers that simulate braided lines.
· Dirt under the radiator overflow hoses is a common point loser.
Almost all show detailers forget this one. During a full show detail, all
engine hoses should be removed from the brackets, cleaned and dressed.
· Align all hose clamps, screw slots should also be vertical
and any cotter pins straight and bent in the same manner.
· Remove all engine debris with high pressure air. Make sure
all radiator and/or cooler fins are straightened.
· As far as originality in the engine: Do not overlook the paint
marks placed on items in and on the engine at the factory. They mean more
points if they were not removed or painted over.
Other Show Details and Tips:
· Caring for lug nuts - chrome and painted lug nuts may be scratched
while being removed and re-tightened. To prevent this, place a piece of
plastic (a heavy duty plastic freezer bag) over the lug nuts before using
your wrench of choice. A rag on a lug nut will just tear.
· All tires, dash boards, vinyl and seats must be cleaned before
you apply a coat of protection. Sealed in contaminates always attack the
surface, cloud the appearance, and shorten durability.
· Cotton swabs are useful on the exterior as well as the interior.
Inside they are used to remove dust from vents, slots and grooves. Outside,
you can use them to remove wax from emblems, and to apply wax and dressings
in tight spaces.
· It is recommended that you remove the windshield wipers and
detail them as well. Moreover, you do not run the risk of snagging the
buffer or polishing rag on them.
· Do not overlook the rubber trim. Use a rubber cleaner that
really makes these semi-gloss black parts shine as well as clean.
· Use semi-gloss on door handles, side mirrors and cowl vents
on new cars, as chrome on classic cars require special care.
· Door jams and the hood and trunk lids are part of the detailing.
Judges look at these just as hard as the main body.
· Fender / Wheel wells cost points at a show. These need to be
cleaned and look new.
· Pledge furniture polish works well to shine fender wells and
the under body.
· Use plastic polish on headlights, side markers, tail light
lens and inside gauges. Never use anything that has an abrasive in it on
plastic while cleaning and detailing.
· A treated duster will leave streaks when used in the hot sun
on a hot finish.
· Fanatical enthusiasts like everything to be in perfect order.
This means lining up screw heads so they all point in the same direction.
We do this with wheel center caps as well.
· If and when a touch up spray painting is needed to the under
body or other areas (yes I detail the under carriage as well) - use your
thumb to operate the paint can. A lot of show detailers claim this gives
them better control of the spray and makes it easier to reach tight spaces.
· Heat paint cans in a sink of warm water to improve paint flow
and maximize pressure.
· Exhaust tips and mufflers are best cleaned with SOS pads and
the inside of the exhaust pipes can be cleaned with shop rags and SOS pads.
Yes - the judges look under the car and inside the exhaust pipes.
· After dusting interior vents, adjust the vents so they all
point in the same direction - horizontally and vertically.
· If your car is not garaged, protect it with a good car cover.
But always use a cotton cover because nylon covers can catch grime and
grit in the nylon and thus scratch the finish.
· Check your water, since well water may spot and stain. Some
owners have made the mistake of washing their cars with well water. The
problem here is iron in the water which will cause a red stain
· If the water is high in sodium or chlorides, it can leave a
white residue on the finish.
· If the PH number is on the acid side, that could damage the
finish.
· When a car gets dirt on it, nothing beats clean water to get
it off. Do not rub a dry car with a rag. You will scratch it. Use a bucket
of tested water or buy a few gallons of spring water that has been tested.
· Wax puts a barrier there to preserve the paint. Dirt spots
will rinse off easily. If you keep a car waxed, the paint's in better shape,
and in the long run, you will enjoy your daily driver, classic or show
car a lot more. This is besides the fact that its value will be maintained.
I personally hope this article helps in your detailing efforts. I did
hold back a few secrets since my car still competes, but this article will
get you well on your way to professional detailing.
Please feel free to contact us about products or techniques.
Enjoy!
©copyright: 1998 Angela Brown and Paul Gasparola.
Avalon Ent - Racing Division
